Tangier, Morocco – an Ancient and a Modern City

During my year of overseas travel in 2018-19, I spent an exciting month in Morocco, North Africa, exploring much of the country. After Casablanca, Chefchaouen, and Tetouan, it was time to move on to the famous port town of Tangier. Tag along!

Join me here on a tour of the picturesque Medina of Tangier (a UNESCO World Heritage site), the Cave of Hercules, and where the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean converge…

Location of Tangier

Morocco is located in the extreme northwest corner of Africa. Tangier itself is near the Strait of Gibraltar, only 17 miles from the southernmost tip of Spain! Morocco’s proximity to Spain has resulted in a heavy Spanish influence in this northern part of the country; the middle portion has more of a French influence.

To enter Morocco, I flew in to Mohammed V International Airport (CMN) in Casablanca, which is on the Atlantic Coast of Morocco. After acclimating there, I ventured north to explore Chefchaouen and Tetouan; my articles on these have been published, as well as an overview of my time in Morocco.

The Tangier Medina, a UNESCO site

The medina is the oldest part of Tangier; its UNESCO World Heritage status is due to the craftsmanship of the artisans, and its unique history as a bridge between Europe and Africa. I’m drawn to the older parts of any city, so I was excited to explore it. The sights, sounds, and scents in the medina among the spice markets and fruit stands, and the hustle and bustle of the local people delighted all of my senses. (Except the meat markets – I walked quickly through there and decided against photos of all the innards…)

The colorful murals and street art in the Tangier medina, combined with its unique Moorish and Andalusian influences, is what makes it stand out from the others I’d seen thus far. The history of Tangier is long and complex; it’s been an important site throughout millenia, since the 5th century BC.

Have you noticed that there aren’t many people to be seen yet in this article? Many folks, especially women in Morocco, do not like to have their photo taken by strangers. The photos I do have of people are either general scene-type photos, or with permission. The first photo below is a general photo; for the middle photo, this woman walked directly in front of me while I was attempting to shoot a street scene. (The last photo is a detail of the mosaic tiles in an old working fountain in the medina.)

Moroccan Attire

I enjoyed observing the traditional dress of the Moroccan people. In February and March, when I visited, there was abundant sunshine. The temperatures were mostly in the 60’s, but the residents were freezing, and wearing their heaviest clothing, while I was comfortable in a sweater for the most part. (So much better than the damp 40-ish weather where I’d traveled from, in Germany.)

The men wear djellabas, a full-length robe with a hood, and women wear kaftans of different sorts. In the newer parts of towns and cities, young men and women do wear Western attire, but from my experience traveling the back roads, this is not the norm.

Modern Tangier

The more modern parts of the town bring to mind the colors white and blue, for the white-washed buildings and the blue seas and sky. Tangier has been the summer site of the Moroccan royal residence since 1962. 

The Cave of Hercules

The Caves of Hercules is an archaeological cave complex in Cape Spartel, about 10 miles from Tangier. Inside the cave is a “window” out to the Atlantic Ocean; many believe that the shape of the window reflects the shape of the African continent in reverse. Watching the waves through the window was mesmerizing. (I recommend turning down your sound volume before watching the video – the cave made the waves echo loudly.)

A ‘window’ from the Cave of Hercules to the Atlantic Ocean

The cave itself is part natural and part man-made. The man-made part was formed long ago by Berber people, who cut stone wheels from the walls to make millstones, thus expanding the cave considerably. It’s easy to see the columns of rock with circular shapes cut from them, below.

Dramatic waves in the Atlantic Ocean, near Tangier

The Confluence of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean

Suz standing at the convergence of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean

Are you as fascinated by oceans and waves as I am? – one of my sayings is, “I’m pretty sure my birthstone is a seashell.”

I also enjoy visiting geographically significant places in the world (e.g., the southernmost tip of Africa, or standing at the Equator), so it was fun for me to get to where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic.

Everyone who’s been here has this photo of themselves!

Watching this fisherman was so peaceful and serene – except for the wind! (volume down)

Fisherman with a long rod, fishing the Atlantic Ocean

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Travel Planning for Morocco

In Chefchaouen and most other places, my goal was to stay in small traditional hotels and riads in the old parts of the town. In Tangier, I stayed in the modern part of the city, walking distance to the water, at the Fredj Hotel; it was very moderately priced, clean, and the people at the hotel were wonderful in helping me in many ways – to arrange a driver, suggest restaurants, and ideas of sights to see. I enjoyed the small balcony, where I could relax after a long day of exploration, looking out over the lights of the town and the water – with a cocktail, of course! 😉

How do you like to travel? If you’re interested to travel in Morocco solo, this guide book will help. If you’d prefer not to go on your own, there are tours of Morocco that are small and personal. The buses can get you between the larger cities; I met up with several drivers who were willing to take me the back roads to my next destination, if you need a suggestion. However you go, I’d love to hear your experiences!

Previous Morocco Articles

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29 Comments

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  1. Wow! Tangier looks like a beautiful place to visit! I love all the colors in the marketplaces and on the mosaic tiles. I will be adding this place to out list of places to visit in Morocco!

  2. It all looks so exotic and beautiful! Tangier is on my travel list. And I’d want that room with a balcony too, for the views and to relax after a busy day exploring.

    1. Julie, I do believe that it’s easier for older women to travel solo than young women; it’s a different dynamic, for sure.

  3. We were supposed to be visiting Morocco this spring, and I’m so bummed that we won’t be able to go. Your post makes me want to go even more!

    1. Oh, snap! Hopefully, your trip was postponed rather than cancelled. It was great – stay tuned…we’ll be on to Rabat, Fez, the Sahara, and so much more!

  4. I love the architecture in Tangiers, the tiles are amazing. I personally love shopping at open-air markets like these. I know I would buy a hundred spices just because I could smell them all. So vibrant and beautiful.

  5. Morocco looks so colourful and welcoming. It is on the bucket list for sure! I lingered over the food pics a little longer than any other (except the awesome doorway photo!!) LOL

  6. Love the door! I have such an affinity for them and am always taking photos of them in my travels!

    1. Same here! And, they were awesome all over Morocco – I’m thinking of putting together a photo collage of them all…

  7. Wow the colors are amazing! I’ve never been to Morocco, but seeing all the awesome architecture and vibrant life makes me want to visit!

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